Rustic Winter: Finding Slow Moments on the New England Coast
A weekend escape to Portsmouth and Kennebunk, where layers are essential and the holiday magic is historic.
December has a way of accelerating. Between the end-of-year rush and the holiday prep, it’s easy to lose the thread. This past weekend, Mark and I decided to hit pause. We needed to trade the noise for something a little more grounded—a quick escape up the coast to Portsmouth, NH, and the quiet corners of Southern Maine.
The goal wasn't a jam-packed itinerary; it was about capturing that specific New England winter feeling. Crisp air, historic bricks, and the kind of bucolic pace that recharges the batteries.
Saturday: Layers and Holiday Lights
When the forecast calls for snow showers and temperatures hovering near freezing, your gear matters. For a day spent walking the line between rugged Kittery and refined Portsmouth, I leaned into the classics.
I went with a heavy blue plaid flannel layered over a mustard waffle-knit henley—a color combination that felt earthy and warm against the grey sky. Paired with my go-to blue jeans and the real MVP of the weekend, my olive green field jacket, I felt ready for whatever the seacoast weather had in store.
We started by browsing the aisles at Kittery Trading Post (a necessary pilgrimage) before heading across the bridge into downtown Portsmouth. The energy there is unmatched this time of year. We soaked up the history at the Strawberry Banke Candlelight Stroll—there is something deeply centering about walking those centuries-old paths illuminated by actual candlelight.
After watching the tree lighting and the parade, we were frozen through. We ducked into Row 34 to thaw out. While it’s known as a premier oyster bar, here’s the insider tip: after hours in the cold, skip the raw bar and order their burger. It was exactly the comforting, hearty meal we needed to cap off a long day on our feet.
Sunday: The Art of a Slow Morning
If Saturday was about activity, Sunday was about indulgence. We secured a noon checkout at our hotel, which completely changed the complexion of the morning. No alarms, just slow coffee and the luxury of time.
When we finally ventured out, our first stop was Elephantine Bakery down a quiet alley in Portsmouth. Stepping inside feels like a quick trip to Europe. We grabbed their legendary almond croissants—flaky, buttery perfection—and enjoyed the quiet morning vibe before hitting the road back north.
The Greenhouse Oasis
On the way back to Biddeford, we made a mandatory stop in Kennebunk at Snug Harbor Farm. If you follow Country Road Chronicles, you know this is my kind of place. It’s the epitome of the rustic, bucolic aesthetic we love.
For the drive and the farm, I switched up the look to a simple, deep rust-colored long-sleeve shirt under the olive jacket, paired with a Carhartt beanie.
Stepping from the biting December wind into their heated terracotta greenhouse was the highlight of the weekend. The smell of damp earth and greenery, the rows of weathered pots, the filtered light—it was pure serotonin. It’s places like this that remind you why we live up here. It’s rugged without trying too hard, beautiful in its utility.
We headed back home to Biddeford feeling genuinely reset. Sometimes you don’t need a week away; you just need 36 hours, the right layers, and a little bit of coastal magic